Gins Like No Other
Introduction
“Larrakia is one country within Australia, my grandmother’s country, so what I’ve done with the company is set it up around the seven seasons that we Larrakia live by,” says founder Daniel Motlop, the former AFL player from Darwin. “Whether it be magpie goose, kangaroo or barramundi, we hunt in seasons. And it’s exactly the same with the fruit. There are things that tell us we can harvest something or go out and hunt, like little flowers that pop up which mean it’s turtle season. They’re signs that we as Larrakia people have been brought up to learn.”

“In Gurrulwa, which is the Big Wind Time, that’s when we go out and harvest green ants,” Motlop says, referring to the August/September season in Larrakia Country around Darwin. “All things are done in these seasons for sustainability. If we harvest them outside those times, then you’re harvesting around the Queen ants and the babies.”

Sustainable Harvesting
Seven Seasons have come up with an ingenious method of harvesting the green ants sustainably. After collecting the nest, they immediately chill it, so the ants stay put. Removing it from the chiller, the ants wake up and venture out directly into a freezer, while the larvae and Queen stay within the nest, safe as houses. Afterwards, the nest is put back, to thrive once again.

Motlop uses the green ants to flavour Seven Season’s Green Ant Gin, and it’s a taste that needs to be imbibed to be believed. With their zesty, makrut-lime-like flavour, it’s actually a wonder no-one’s ever thought of throwing green ants into gin, where a citrus garnish is a necessity, before.


Family at its core
The spirits taste amazing (look out for their soon-to-launch Native Yam Vodka, too, which boasts “earthy, coconutty” notes, according to Motlop) but Seven Seasons isn’t only about delicious drinks. “My whole company, it’s not just about the spirits; it’s about learning our culture,” explains Motlop.
What sets them apart is their authenticity, “We buy three tonnes of native ingredients for just our spirits,” he says. “Whereas some other companies only use one or two kilos and say it’s a native spirit – and really, is it?” Ingredients get shipped down from Larrakia Country in the Top End to the South Australian distillery where the gin is produced. Seven Seasons both employs and is run by Indigenous Australian people, and so the precious harvesting skills honed by them over thousands of years are rewarded fairly (this has not always been the case in the native food industry). “There’s plenty of money in it for everyone,” says Motlop. “It’s more than just money – it’s my family and my culture.”
As for what to eat with these gins, Wijesena suggests going all out, flavour-wise, “Both of these gins would pair really well with spicy food like Thai or Szechuan,” he says. “Alternatively, they are also perfect for pairing with richer, more hearty dishes such as cacio e pepe, or any cheesy pasta, or a flame grilled steak or portobello mushroom.”
The importance of Seven Seasons from a cultural perspective isn’t lost on Wijesena, “The focus on Indigenous ingredients is great but so is the commitment to sustainability, and the support of Indigenous business all the way through the supply chain, from farm to bottle,” he says.
Tasting their products is also a lesson in a cuisine we should all really know more about, “it’s educational. I think people don’t realise how tasty Aboriginal cuisine is,” says Wijesena. “Some of the world’s oldest farming practices, advocations of seasonality and sustainability are being showcased here.”

Pasan’s cocktail hit list:
Bush Apple Gin Sour
INGREDIENTS
60ml Seven Seasons Bush Apple Gin 30ml Lemon juice 20ml Agave syrup or honey Dash of Angostura Bitters (if you have it on hand)
METHOD
Half-fill a cocktail shaker with ice, then pour all your ingredients into it, shake it up, then strain into a glass of your choice (coupes look gorgeous and feel fancy, but any small glass should work). Garnish with a twist of lemon, if you like.
Pasan’s extra titbits
For Wijesena, going back to basics with gin is the way he likes it best, “I like to keep it simple in a highball (with tonic or soda) or in a Negroni or Sour,” he says. “The Green Ant Gin makes a great Martini, and the Bush Apple is cracking in a Negroni [pour equal parts gin, sweet vermouth and Campari over ice in a glass, stir and serve]. Both are also well suited to Spritzes – just add a little prosecco and a touch of something sweet and you’re laughing.”
